White Rim Road in Canyonlands National Park, Utah, October 2022

Blog Resurrection ...

I haven't updated this Blog in seven years, and we have been to so many NEW places in these past years that it seems prudent to do so now.

The White Rim Road is a checked Bucket List trip. Campsites and a road permit have to be pre-booked months in advance. We drove this 100 mile long primitive road with friends Paul and Sue who drove their Jeep, and Dolores in her Dodge RAM 4x4. Campsites are also primitive, which means sleeping in a tent, something I haven't done in many, many years. But I was willing to put my comfort aside for this trip of a lifetime.

	This is the Shafer Trail which is one way of accessing the White Rim Road from the Visitor Centre in Canyonlands National Park. We drove in from Moab on the Potash Road, and exited 3 days later on Mineral Bottom Trail. You can choose which direction to drive the road, just know that many sections are single-lane.
	The view from Potash Road heading towards the White Rim Road.
	Near Thelma and Louise Point and below Dead Horse Point State Park, a view of the Green River (which isn't so green here) along the Potash Road.
	It's a long way down. The White Rim Road sits about half way between the Islands in the Sky District of Canyonlands National Park which is about 800 feet above and the Green River some 800 feet below. I know this photo is small, but maybe you can see our two vehicles parked in the crescent of the overhang, and some of our group standing there also.
	Setting up camp for our first night at Gooseberry Campground A. We have an amazing view of the snow-capped Manti-Las Sal Mountains at sunset. This first night was freezing, going down to 28F or -2C. And my air mattress deflated in the middle of the night so I ended up sleeping on the slickrock. All part of the experience, right?
	This rock has eroded with what looks like two hammers on either end.
	Storm clouds developed as we were setting up camp on our second night at Candlestick Campground. The sun is setting causing the red rocks to glow against that dark, cloudy backdrop. Spectacular. We did get a light sprinkle in the night, and the winds picked up, and it was still really cold, but we survived, and the scenery made it worthwhile.
	Paul in his Jeep going up the Murphy Hogback. This was on the last day and while the ascent and descent were steep, it was not extremely difficult.  Hardscrabble Hill was more scary with its tight switchbacks and steep dropoffs.
	The road had finally descended to the Green River, and we had this lovely view. We averaged about 11 mph or 18 kph overall during the 3-day drive. Much of it is very bumpy over slickrock, with some sandy stretches.
	More views from the Island in the Sky District of Canyonlands National Park showing the White Rim Road (if you can see it on the left between the two eroded canyons).
	The White Rim Road might be slightly more visible in this photo as it comes from the bottom left and skirts the eroded canyons as it continues to the top right.  Photo was also taken from Island in the Sky.

While I thoroughly enjoyed this trip, for me it was tough. Sleeping in a tent in freezing cold weather, bumping along in a pick-up truck all day, rushing to get to our reserved campsite and set up our gear before dark were all part of the adventure. I think we could have used one more day to better explore some of the side roads and hikes along the way. However, I wouldn't do it again, but I am glad I did it.  Bucket List Trip - CHECK!

Moab, Part 3 - More Great Stuff around Moab, Utah

Still in the Moab area, we find some beautiful places to explore outside of Arches National Park. We don't really even venture into Canyonlands National Park as we spent a full week hiking here a few years ago. And there's so much other new stuff to do and see around here...

Highway 128 along the Colorado River

Castle Valley - The Priest and Nuns We take the La Sal Mountain Loop Road just south of Moab. The views above the city are beautiful, but the photos are not as they're into the sun. This view of the rock formation called the Priest and Nuns in Castle Valley at the end of the loop drive is the best from our day.

Morning Glory Natural Bridge An easy, 4-mile hike up Negro Bill Canyon (aka Grandstaff Canyon) leads to Morning Glory Natural Bridge. Its huge expanse is hard to capture in a single photo.

The beautiful Colorado River A beautiful resort with at least 50 cabins along the Colorado River near Castle Valley. Some cottonwood trees are still bright yellow, contrasting with the red rock.

Potash Road and the Shafer Trail

Brad overlooking the Colorado River We spend a full day driving Potash Road from Moab. Here's Brad at Thelma and Louise Point, technically called Fossil Point for its marine fossils found in the rocks 1,000 feet above the Colorado River.

Thelma and Louise Point The final scene of the movie, Thelma and Louise, was shot here. The car was ejected over the cliff just beyond the promontory in the middle of this photo.

Me overlooking a tributary along Potash Road We started our drive on Potash Road in Moab just before lunch, and stopped to enjoy the views so often that it is getting dark by the time we get to the spot where it intersects with the Shafer Trail leading us back up to Canyonlands National Park and our campsite on Dubinky Well Road. This tributary, when there's water, falls about 400-500 feet over this smooth, rocky waterfall and joins the Colorado River just around the corner.

As we ascend the steep switchbacks of the Shafer Trail, it's fully dark and we are surprised by a group of bighorn sheep who run across the road in front of the truck and disappear over the cliff's edge.

The switchbacks of the Shafer Trail On another day, we start down the Shafer Trail late in the morning to retrace our drive backwards towards Potash Road since it was dark when we finished that previous drive and we missed some great views. These are some of the switchbacks that descend the steep cliff and lead to Potash Road and the White Rim Trail, the latter a 100-mile dirt road that follows the rim above the Colorado and Green Rivers, and is a popular backcountry 3-4 night trip for cyclists.

Panorama at the Gooseneck on Potash Road We have lunch at the Gooseneck below Dead Horse Point State Park and spend a couple of hours just enjoying the view and soaking up the sun. The road (Potash Road at this point) is fairly well travelled by all types of vehicles although parts of the road from here to the Shafer Trail are fairly rough.

Fisher Towers and Onion Creek

Climber at Fisher Towers About 20 miles east of Moab on Highway 128 is the Fisher Towers trailhead and small campground. This trail is popular not only with hikers but also climbers. There are several climbing routes in this rocky ridge, but this one seems to be the most popular.

A bigger view of the rock ridge. Note the formation being climbed in the previous photo is the second "peak" from the left. The hike is fairly easy (if you're not afraid of heights), but longer than it looks as the trail follows the canyons created by erosion - in and out, in and out. From the viewpoint at the end of the trail, the parking lot is barely one mile away as the crow flies. We have hiked 2.2 miles. Oh well, the views make the trail worthwhile.

Brad overlooking Onion Creek Below Brad is Onion Creek Road, which we drive on another day trip. It's a lovely drive through the canyon, then through and above Fisher Valley, eventually climbing North Beaver Mesa and looping back to the highway through Castle Valley.

This dinosaur trackway is not advertised on our map so is a nice surprise to find along Polar Mesa Road just before we descend into Castle Valley. There are numerous tracks found in this location with a short interpretive trail, and fabulous views of Bull Canyon and Fisher Valley if you follow the social trail along the rim.

Moab, Part 2 - Arches National Park, Utah

Barely a few miles north of the town of Moab, Utah is Arches National Park. It is one of five national parks in southern Utah; not the biggest nor the smallest; certainly one of the most visited; and one where it is fairly easy to see the incredible red sandstone formations southern Utah is known for. It has one of the highest concentration of naturally formed arches in the world.

Me standing beneath Delicate Arch Delicate Arch is probably the most iconic symbol of Utah, and is used in many publications and tourism brochures. The hike to the arch is considered difficult with a pretty steep climb up the sandstone rock, an elevation gain of 480 feet and a narrow ledge to traverse in the last few hundred feet.

Balanced Rock Balanced Rock is visible from the main road through the park, although a short trail circumnavigates its base. The La Sal Mountains (unusual to have so little snow on the peaks in late October) make a majestic background.

The jumbled maze of Fiery Furnace This is Fiery Furnace as seen from a distance. The eroded fins create a maze of passageways with towering walls on each side. Ranger-guided hikes through the Furnace have ended for the season, so we purchase a permit (it is the only area in the park requiring a permit other than for overnight backpacking) and attempt to navigate it on our own.

Me standing inside the tiny arch Somehow, we stumble across this tiny arch in one of the dead-end passages of Fiery Furnace, but we never manage to penetrate into the interior of this maze. Next time, we will hire a private tour guide, or return during guided tour season as our hiking day is a bit disappointing.

(L) South Window; (R) North Window The North and South Windows from the backside on the Primitive Trail. These windows are huge; if you look closely, you can see people standing in North Window on the right.

Me standing inside the North Window A view of Turret Arch taken through the North Window, again from the backside where few people wander.

Ok, Brad's almost invisible because he's wearing blue! Brad standing inside one of the arches of Double Arch, also in the Windows Section of the park. (Brad is standing in the bottom right corner of the arch at the bottom left.)

Along the short hike in Park Avenue, so named as the canyon resembles the famed New York street lined on both sides with towering buildings. These are nature's skyscrapers.

Me in the bottom arch with a view of Colorado in the top arch Arches National Park has many other beautiful arch formations which we've seen on previous trips, like Double-O Arch near the end of the Devils Garden Trail. This photo is from our trip in 2009, pre-retirement.

Another photo from our 2009 trip of Landscape Arch, which we think should be called Delicate Arch because it's so thin. Only a few years ago, a huge chunk of rock fell from the underside on the right.

Moab, Part 1 - With Friends, Utah

Southern Utah - our favourite place on earth! How can we resist spending some time here, especially with friends Nancy and Dave, and new friends Dori and Ken. Two national parks are nearby - Arches and Canyonlands - as well as several other remarkable hikes and views. We spend only the first four days of our three week stay in Moab with our friends before they continue on their previously planned journey.

Corona Arch

The train "tunnel" at the beginning of the hike along Potash Road outside of Moab.

Dave (top), Nancy, Ken, Dori, me and Brad Here we all are posing at the one small ladder to climb along the hike to the arch which is behind us. On the left of the photo, you can see a pothole.

Corona Arch Four of us contemplating the sheer size of the arch. See the couple hugging on the right? He has just proposed to her and their dog is waiting so patiently while they are locked in this embrace for at least 5 minutes, maybe even 10. How romantic.

Spring Canyon Road

Overlooking Spring Canyon from the top of the steep road that leads down into the canyon and to the Green River.

Driving down Spring Canyon Road Most of the fun is driving these roads. They are narrow, only allowing 2 cars to pass in a few spots. They are rugged, built on the edges of the steep canyon walls. Like I said - fun!

Mineral Bottom Road to Moses & Zeus

Nancy, Dave, me and Ken hiking out to Moses and Zeus (Dori must be behind Brad the photographer). The two tall spires ahead of us are the aptly-named formations.

A view of Taylor Canyon looking towards the parking area from the base of Moses and Zeus. Ken, Dori and I are about to make our way across the narrow ridge near the bottom left.

Canyonlands' Island in the Sky

Snowcapped La Sal Mountains from our trailer spot in Moab, Utah

Before we head into Canyonlands' Island in the Sky district, we stop in Moab to stock up on supplies.  We decide to stay overnight in an actual RV Park - our first of the trip - so we can catch up on some internet work, do laundry, grocery shop, etc.  As we head to the RV Park, the skies become overcast and soon after we get set up it starts raining.  It rains for a couple of hours and while I'm at the laundromat, I look out the window and see that, not only has it stopped raining, but there is SNOW on the tops of the La Sal Mountains about 20 miles away.  It's a beautiful sight to see as the sky is clearing so there are now puffy white clouds and deep blue Utah sky!  It is quite mild down here in the valley, but it must be freezing up on those mountain tops!

Our campsite, ready for the horse trail ride

Outside of Canyonlands National Park, we find a great camping spot on free BLM land where a horse "ride" is being held in a few days.  When we get up on Saturday morning, there are about 20 horses and their families all around us readying for the trek.  They're all gone by the time we return from our daily hike.  Since we are basically alone here on a rocky plateau overlooking a valley, Grady gets his walks again.  The weather has turned very cold even though it's sunny.  Day temps barely reach 60F (16C?) and at night it hovers around freezing, so there shouldn't be any dangerous snakes about late in the day.  He is a good pet to walk, staying with me at all times, sometimes following and sometimes leading and always going back into the trailer when I clap my hands and say "Go" or tell him "In!" at the trailer steps.  He seems more content for having the exercise and activity.

Island in the Sky with La Sal Mtns (not a volcano)

In the National Park, there is lots to do and thankfully most of the trails are shorter than in the Needles District.  This area of the park is very different, looking more like a mini Grand Canyon.  You drive along through a meadow and suddenly, where the road stops, is a cliff 1,400 feet down to the next plateau which stretches away from you for several miles of nothing except small green bushes and reddish-brown sand and rock, and then another drop of perhaps another 1,000 feet to the Green or Colorado River, depending on which side of the park road you're on.  It's a stunning view pocked with buttes or a red-rock monoliths with names like Candlestick Tower, Turk's Head, Cleopatra's Chair and Washer Woman's Arch here and there.  Here's the run-down of our tour:

Upheaval Dome is a 2-mile wide depression in the rock seen from a viewpoint that we hike up to.  There are two theories on how this crater was formed.  One is that it was caused by a meteor whose impact deformed the layers of sediment and rock in the earth.  Another is that an underlying layer of salt left behind by ancient seas flowed up through the rock as it is less dense and forced the rock to heave up into a dome.  In both cases, nature then eroded the upper layers of rock, exposing the twisted layers that are visible today.  Whichever theory is true, the resulting piles of white, red and pink gravel framed by twisted red rock layers are intriguing.

Brad at Upheaval Dome, looking into the crater

Mesa Arch is a beautiful white rock arch on the edge of a cliff.  This is different from viewing the arches in Arches National Park only about 20 miles away - there you are typically standing on the ground or another rock formation from a distance looking up at an arch.  Here, we stand on the rock ledge to which the arch is attached, looking out at the valley and La Sal Mountains.  Because we are inside the arch and so close to it, we feel like we are looking through a picture frame.  Standing at the edge of the cliff (yes, we do that sometimes!) Mesa Arch looks like it is barely attached to the cliff face, there is such a large crack between it and the wall.  People walk out on top of the arch which would take very steely nerves for it's a very long way straight down.

Marilyn at Mesa Arch, framing the view into the canyon

False Kiva is a "secret" cliff dwelling at the end of a trail that is not on the park map.  It is considered a Class 2 archeological site meaning that park staff will tell you about it and how to get to it if you ask, but they will not volunteer the information.  A Class 1 site is open to the public and you will find these on maps.  A Class 3 site is so top secret that no one will tell you anything about it.  We are introduced to False Kiva from a book we purchased called "Photographing the Southwest, Volume 1 - A Guide to the natural landmarks of Southern Utah" by Laurent Martres.  It is an excellent book that tells us how to get to the locations, when it's best to photograph them (morning or afternoon light) and from where.  The beginning of the hike is easy but then, the path descends a rock cliff, makes a sharp u-turn and climbs back up the rocky cliff to the Kiva.  It is a strenuous climb down and then back up this steep switchback, but the view is extraordinarily rewarding.  From here, we are overlooking Holeman Spring Basin with a great view of Candelstick Tower and the White Rim Road about 1,400 feet below us.  The 100-mile long White Rim Road is a 4x4 road which requires a permit and 3-4 days to drive or cycle.  It mostly follows the rim of the lower plateau, above and east of the Green River and at the southern tip of the Island in the Sky District cuts across to wind through the plateau just west of the Colorado River.  Back in the Kiva, which archeologists believe wasn't really a kiva (native ceremonial place) at all but rather a circular dwelling, we wait for the afternoon sun to light up the cliffs and Candlestick Tower in front of us.  Another photographer and his wife arrive and we chat (they are from Alaska!) and we finally take some photos.  Then suddenly, about 10-12 other photographers show up!  Everyone wants to photograph the view in the late afternoon sun, as the photography book recommends.  This lighting provides for a warm glow off the kiva's red rock ceiling.  Brad and I hike it out of there, leaving the others to await sunset and a trek back in the dark, first down the rocky cliff, then across and back up.

Brad & Marilyn at False Kiva, view of Candlestick Tower

The Shafer Trail Road descends by a series of steep switchbacks down to the first plateau about 1,400 below the park road.  It is a nail-biting dirt road set on the edge of the cliff and barely wide enough for one vehicle, however this road used to be traveled by uranium ore dump trucks, so I guess we can do it in a 4x4 pick-up!  Brad makes me incredibly nervous as he's watching the scenery and, in my opinion, not focusing enough on the task at hand.  I, the passenger, never take my eyes off the road.  We are fortunate that no one is coming up the switchbacks at the same time as us, although there are tiny, tiny pull-offs where one vehicle can wait while the other passes; sometimes these are on the inside (against the cliff wall) and sometimes they're on the outside (at the edge of the cliff).  Surprisingly, a new model Mustang is descending in front of us.  Must be a rental or dad's car!  At the bottom, the road straightens out, but is still rough.  The Mustang lets us pass and we don't see him for the rest of the day.  This road becomes the White Rim Road (so named because the rock on which most of the road is built is white caprock) which we can see from the viewpoints along the park road on top.  We stop at Goosenecks Overlook which is a short trail to the cliff's edge where we have a great view of the Colorado River.  In fact, this is the best view we've seen from anywhere in the park!  The La Sal Mountains are in the background with red cliffs in the foreground, the river below edged by willows and cottonwoods, and in the middle the grey-green flat plateau.  Above us and just down river is Dead Horse Point State Park where the end of the movie Thelma and Louise was filmed.  Musselman Arch, another mile or so down the road, is similar to Mesa Arch except that the top of it is at ground level and the arch is below us.  Again, the arch is attached to the cliff wall where we stand so we look out through the arch to the scenery beyond instead of looking up at an arch in the red rock.  We can walk out on top of the arch as it is flat and about 4 feet wide at its narrowest point.  We meet several other people along the road, some like us just checking out the Gooseneck and Arch, but also cyclists who spend 3 or 4 days down here cycling the entire 100-mile White Rim Road.  They travel with at least one vehicle following behind them carrying water and supplies for the journey.  A permit is required.

Switchbacks going down the Shafer Trail Road to White Rim Road - YIKES!

Colorado River with Dead Horse Point above at the Goosenecks

Marilyn on Musselman Arch

Green River, Buck Canyon and Grand View Point Overlooks are all viewpoints of the plateaux and eroded formations in the "Monument Basin".  We can see southeast to the Needles District where we have already explored, southwest to the inaccessible (for us) Maze District, east towards Moab and the La Sal Mountains, west towards the Henry Mountains.  Of course, some views are better in the morning and others in the afternoon, as the changing position of the sun lights up the formations and creates shadows.  The views are incredible, solidifying Canyonlands as a truly unique and special place.

Brad overhanging the cliff at White Rim Overlook

The Monument Basin and White Rim Road - strange erosion at work